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In the middle of a dense row of Chinese restaurants sits one unassuming Vietnamese joint serving up cheap-and-speedy soups, spring rolls, and meat-and-rice dishes to neighborhood workers at a half-dozen Formica tables. Pho, the signature soup of any Vietnamese eatery, however shines, with nine different versions of beef delectably combined with onions, rice noodles, and fragrant beef broth.
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